Just 2 hours away by plane is the big thumping heart of South Africa: Johannesburg.
It is a fantastic sprawling city, with people of all sizes and shades, where history can be referred to as what happened a few years back as oppose to the early/late
nth century.
For the most part, Jozi (as it is endearingly referred to by locals) is known as the "dangerous city" where crime, poverty, gangs, rape and murder rates top the international charts.
True, there are razor wire fences everywhere, and the stark contrast between the wealthy Northern suburbs with their sparkly super-malls and chic restaurants, and the slums of the township literally just down the road are a reality and not in the least way an exaggeration.
Despite all that, just from talking and walking and observing, there is more mixing here than what I've seen in Cape Town. To be perfectly blunt (and it seems that is the only way to be here, "
a South African thing" I'm told), the heart of this
Rainbow Nation is in Joburg.
Blacks are seen sharing a beer with whites. Whites are serving Blacks and Coloureds in cafes. There are more inter-racial couples, at least those who are out and about and holding hands.
I didn't know quite what to expect of Joburg, but from the little I saw, I liked it a lot and am anxious to visit again.
Waitrons (the gender-neutral term used to describe waiters and waitresses) here are energetic, eccentric and they'll have a good go at you, pull your leg or just downright make fun of you - all in good humour of course.
But that friendliness and openness is so refreshing, and so different from the stiff, polite and dare i say, conservative, mannerism of Capetonians.
Upon arriving and checking into our hotel, I then met up with a friend of a friend's, Irene, at
Witwatersrand University. Specializing in literature, she is here on a fellowship from Canada, researching and lecturing on the side.
Together we toured the
Origins Centre Museum on campus (fantastic displays and numerous videos explaining the creation of mankind).
We then stopped by her office (see view from her window) and then picked up her colleague, Yianna, for dinner.
We went to the
Market Theatre area and ate at the famous
Gramadoelas Restaurant. They once served Nelson Mandela, visiting politicians and royalty, actors and models and even Bill and Hilary Clinton.
When Yianna asked the chef/owner what Bill Clinton had, he replied in a dry and matter-of-fact voice: "
the next-door intern". And
that is an example of South African humour. Perhaps not best illustrated in written form, but nevertheless that's it.
Good food, good wine and good conversation is all that is necessary to make a superb evening. And we had all of that, and more to spare.
I learned a lot that evening, especially about race, ethnicity and identity amongst foreigners in the "New South Africa." Lots of food for thought.
After taking the next day relatively easy, Saturday was spent exploring the
De Wildt Cheetah Research Centre , an hours drive north of Joburg.
Famous for its breeding success of rare and endangered animals, the half-day tour provided fascinating insight into some rare creatures you would never see out in the wild: honey badgers (see pic of the albino one sinking its teeth into a little chick), caracals, wild dogs (a beautiful and ugly creature), antelope, vultures, ostriches, etc.
Of course the cheetahs were the main attraction and as promised by the guide from the beginning, they do not disappoint.
Watching them tear into the chunks of meat thrown at them is absolutely awesome.
That afternoon we visited the
Apartheid Museum. A definite must for everyone who passes through Johannesburg.
But, instead of rushing through in a couple of hours like we did, plan to spend at least a full day there to get a good sense of what it meant to live (on either side) of the apartheid regime.
As I came out of the museum, the sun was just setting and I felt like i had been through an entire generation in warp speed where I caught glimpses and snapshots of people's lives in that era. I left with more questions than answers.
See pic of the 6 columns which denotes what the museum represents for the people of SA: Freedom, Respect, Responsibility, Diversity, Reconciliation, and Equality.
That evening we met up with one of Matt's old highschool friend, Thandi, and her partner, Jen, both South Africans. Joining us was Hiroko, an ex-colleague of Matt's now living and studying fine arts at
Wits U.
It was a great meal, and again, I gained a lot of insight into the complexities of South Africa's identity and place in the world.
Too bad Joburg is not aesthetically appealing in any way, shape or form. At least not to me. The culture and vibe is definitely attractive and it would be an amazing experience to live here. But give me beautiful glorious Cape Town any day!
On Sunday we booked ourselves a Soweto Township Tour with
Imbizo Tours (which means a gathering of celebration in friendship, soul and spirit in the Zulu language).
Not knowing at all what to expect, Mandy (the owner and founder of
Imbizo Tours) picked us up in her car and we were treated to a fantastic half-day tour of Soweto, its history, culture and people.
Born and raised in Soweto herself, Mandy "
pioneered the practice of introducing visitors to social life and phenomenal history of South Africa in the late 1990's."
Besides getting an intimate experience of what a church service for a few thousand people is like (no need for elaboration here except to say we were definitely feeling a little out of place), we visited Nelson Mandela's old house (when he was still married to Winnie, see pic of back door), saw the symbolic Soweto water towers and the memorial to the
June 16, 1976 student uprising.
As students, some as young as 8 years old, took to the streets of Soweto that day to protest against apartheid and the Bantu education system, police responded with teargas and bullets.
The last hour and a half of our tour we spent sipping beers, sodas, and later, free cappiccinos in a local
shebeen (unlicensed bar), although this one was actually quite up-scale and we were told they had a proper liquor license.
Mandy basically invited herself (and us, as a result) to sit down with 2 local guys who were already there.
That impromptu drink resulted in the most interesting and insightful conversation to date since arriving in SA.
When you listen to the people of a particular community, Soweto in this instance, there comes an increased awareness of hope and knowledge that seems to permeate from within.
We all learned so much; them about Hong Kong skyscrapers and Jersey cows, and us about Soweto's
bling society ;)
As we got out of her car, Mandy told us to enjoy our stay in South Africa and to "
be part of the process."
In all its various meanings and tangents you can take that statement, the heart of the matter is that a person should be working towards a cause, a purpose, a process. Her parting words have stuck in my mind and as I settle into life here more every day, I ask myself how I can be part of the process.
It's been a very hectic but very successful week.
It is such a welcome relief to have found a place to call our new home. And on top of that major achievement, we found out that our new landlady, Val, a super energetic woman who devotes her life to raising 3 young boys, running a household and a side business, also has a literacy organization that helps kids who are lagging a bit behind in school (mainly in language skills) and gives them enough boost so they don't drop out. They also work with street kids so that they can enter the education system and have a hopeful future.
Still quite a new initiative, they are looking for more resources and people to help out. I had to control my excitement. This is the kind of project I was hoping to get involved in, something that involves teaching/training within the community setting. So once Spring Break is finished, I'll see if and how I can contribute to this initiative.
